Show authority with your wardrobe, but cool casual authority

Q. I start this fall as a professor, and come from a work environment where I wore a tie everyday but not a suit. I’m not sure what the best clothing choices are. How can I show authority but remain casual and collegial with my students.

A. Today, casual and super-casual styles of dressing have extended to many campuses, but I imagine you are looking for something closer to the university wear of yesteryear. Starting any new job is an excellent time to consider your look. And a new professorship, more than a lot of other career choices, comes with a certain level of expectation. It even has its own name – “academia” – that calls to mind a rather specific way of dressing and a number of specific clothing items.

New academics such as yourself or those who want to get on the tenure track find dressing well has the added effect of making them memorable outside the classroom and cultivates an air of professionalism as they work to establish their reputation. Young men in classes taught by well-put-together professors say that they find the way they dress “cool” and see them as style role models.

The elements of a professor’s well-chosen wardrobe usually emphasize the somewhat more casual brown color family (especially brown shoes) or gray, rather than the more formal black clothes (again, especially black shoes). Nothing too dapper. They don’t often have dressy flourishes such as double-breasted styling on the jackets or French cuffs on the shirts; and they never opt for gaudy jewelry. They have included the somewhat stereotypical sports jackets that once had suede elbow patches.
For garments commonly associated with male professors in academia, consider the following:

• Check out what the other professors and instructors wear for guidance.
• Tweed sports jackets present a classic, scholarly look. These might be a herringbone or small-checked pattern or an all-over tweed.
• Button-front shirts made of cotton Oxford cloth and styled with button-down collars. These are primarily in solid colors or subtle patterns.
• A wide range of sweaters including V-necks, crewnecks, and zip-front cardigans. Cardigans provide a comfortable yet professional appearance. A sweater vest or a vest in suiting fabric can work well instead of a jacket.
• Pressed chinos or dress trousers for a polished bottom half.
• Solid-color knit ties and striped or small-patterned ties, tied in the expected four-in-hand knot.

As you suggest, there are definitely specific ideas to consider when dressing for a classroom, just as there are for a boardroom.

• Spend a bit more on quality loafers or laced dress shoes to complete the outfit. (Shoes say a lot.)
• Well-knotted neckties or bow ties for a formal touch, especially during lectures. (Don’t forget the dimple.)
• Purchasing quality menswear often is not a priority. However, high prices need not always be an obstacle if the soul is willing but the wallet is weak. A number of strategies can update, and elevate, a wardrobe on a tight budget. Thrifting is a time-honored way to score menswear finds, vintage or otherwise, at a fraction of the cost. Don’t ignore any needed alterations.

Remember, dressing well increases self-confidence, and this setting does deserve an appropriate air of authority. For schools with families primarily from blue-collar backgrounds, learning to dress professionally for America is an important part of the college experience. Teaching is inherently a type of public speaking, and surveys show that the fear of public speaking is greater than the fear of death for many people. Those who are new to teaching and those facing large classes will find that wearing quality clothing is a sort of armor, just as it can be in the business world. It’s a confidence booster that can increase your ability to face a group of people, and help you command the room.

Please send your men’s dress and grooming questions and comments to MALE CALL: [email protected]