20 Black Style Icons That Forever Changed Fashion
Black folks have long been known as the true trendsetters.
There’s just something about our take on, well, almost everything, that results in the mainstream flocking to the culture, observing its methods, and retreating with some semblance of ownership of those gifts. This often results in the lost history of that original influence, as so many of our heroes have gone unsung. Fortunately, there are also icons who are simply too brazen in their impact to be forgotten, leaving an indelible mark on their industries and beyond.
With New York Fashion Week upon us, one can’t help but reflect on the icons that have shaped how we both see and experience style. Highlighting both overlooked legends and certified game-changers, VIBE has compiled a list of 20 individuals who have changed the nature of fashion since they stepped on the scene. This includes creating era-defining trends, evolving the nature of established norms, promoting individuality in style, embracing both the high-end and accessible, and influencing the global community in how fashion has evolved over the last century.
From Tina and Diana to Riri and A$AP, check out these fashion-forward figures that changed the game.
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Tina Turner
A powerhouse vocalist and titan of on-stage performance, late icon Tina Turner not only broke down barriers in music, but brought fashion front-and-center, often highlighting her amazing legs with high hemlines, bold colors and fringe that emphasized every shimmy and shake.
“I’m the last person to ask about my legs!” the Queen of Rock ‘n Roll said in her book, That’s My Life. “When I was growing up, I always thought they were too long and skinny. I felt like an awkward pony, so I never wanted to show them off. When I wore short skirts onstage it was for a practical reason — they gave me the freedom to move, and I really like to move.”
Even if born out of necessity rather than pure stage aesthetics, Turner’s style became the blueprint for artists to follow. And we’re talking multiple eras of dominance here, giving us a mixture of grit and glamour throughout her decades-spanning career. From form-fitting maxi dresses, to expertly embroidered coats, diamonds to destroyed denim, leather to lace, she approached fashion with a sense of fearlessness that lives on in the biggest names in the biz, who also recognize Turner as the ultimate style role model, a title she could never be denied.
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Diana Ross
Diana Ross followed in Turner’s sequin heels, becoming a fashion icon in her own right thanks to phenomenal pieces that epitomized glamour and set a new standard for elegant stage wear. With many pieces crafted by the likes of Gene Shelly and Bob Mackie, Ross’ svelte figure was the perfect canvas for their sleek catsuits and show-stealing embellished gowns. Whether leading The Supremes or venturing out as a solo star, Ross was always sure to impress with her impeccable style, influencing looks that have since been embraced by countless other performers and fashion houses.
“I always wanted to be a fashion designer and I learned costume illustration in high school,” Ross revealed in a 1981 Interview, via WWD. This skill came in handy for 1975 film Mahogany, as she designed 50 of her own costumes for the Berry Gordy flick where she played a fashion student-turned supermodel.
Ross’ runway debut came in 1990, when Thierry Mugler asked the icon to strut her stuff for his spring 1991 presentation. She agreed only if her daughter, then-aspiring model Tracee Ellis Ross, could join her. She also modeled for the house in 1993.
The icon never lost her sense of style, but did have to be reminded by daughter Tracee of the importance of her legendary wardrobe at one point, telling Naomi Campbell that the “Endless Love” singer, “has incredible taste, and just her regular clothes, she doesn’t sometimes understand the importance of them. It’s hilarious.”
Don’t worry Tracee, the world is fully aware of the fashionista that is your mother, the fabulous Diana Ross!
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Grace Jones
Jamaica-born, New York-raised model-turned-icon Grace Jones has embraced her individuality ever since shaving her head as an up-and-coming Wilhelmina model in the 1960s. This move changed her life in many ways, as her refusal to adhere to traditional ideas of American beauty made her a hit in Europe, where she modeled for labels like Yves Saint Laurent and Kenzo in the 1970s, as per Vogue.
Her embrace of flattop fades signaled to many that femininity isn’t all about long, flowing locks. In fact, her love of geometric shapes and architectural construction spoke to both the strength she possessed as an individual, and the power that women can convey via styling and wardrobe, empowering many to explore their own creativity within fashion rather than follow whatever’s popular at the time. Ironically, Jones embracing her own signature aesthetic resulted in others following suit.
In addition to hair and wardrobe, Jones chose to highlight her immaculate skin tone with colorful makeup techniques that soon after became mainstream for the 1980s.
For a young Jones, thinking outside the box was a result of always feeling a bit abstract herself, once sharing of cutting her hair, “It made me look more abstract, less tied to a specific race or sex or tribe. I was Black, but not Black; woman, but not woman; American, but Jamaican; African, but science fiction.”
At 76 years old, Jones continues to express her passion, vigor, and zest for life via her wardrobe. The star took to 2024 festival stages in creations that stole the show, as she continues to set the bar for style rule-breakers everywhere.
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Michael Jackson
Michael Jackson‘s sense of style is one of the most imitated — not only by celebs, but the public — of all time. This should come as no surprise, seeing as he was the most popular human being on earth for over two decades. Still, the fact that he had the Midas touch when it came to both music and fashion — without help from a stylist for most of his career — spoke to the breadth of his talent that’s still being felt today.
Jackson’s interest in military history inspired his signature look, as the King of Pop dawned many an embellished military jacket throughout his career, signifying him as a true leader among his peers in both his artistry and celebrity fashion.
“Michael was infatuated with British hereditary and military history,” Michael Bush, Jackson’s personal dressmaker, wrote in his book The King of Style: Dressing Michael Jackson, describing the look as “Liberace goes to war,” via Vogue UK.
“For Michael’s costumes, Dennis and I studied monarchs and European military history, taking particular notice of one of the most notorious kings, King Henry VIII of England. And there they were,” Bush wrote. “Pearls. Sewn on the king’s clothes, bedazzling his collars, vests, and bibs.”
It’s since inspired countless high-end label collections from the likes of Balmain, Givenchy, and Balenciaga, as well as looks for Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Chris Brown, Kanye West, Offset, and others.
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Willi Smith
Willi Smith is largely credited as the creator of streetwear, so it only makes sense that he’s included on a list of fashion change-makers.
Paving the way for the Virgils and Tremaines of modern design, Smith combined style influences from the streets of 1960s and 70s New York City — where he studied at Parsons before launching his career — mixed with sportswear elements, elevated by couture silhouettes and patterns inspired by his world travels, with Smith himself deeming his aesthetic “street couture.”
Even while a craftsman producing looks for the elite, Smith was also mindful of the practical consumer, insisting that his designs be affordable without sacrificing their quality. He also had a penchant for designing genderless frocks, a design choice that went on to become a staple within streetwear design. Smith’s decision to widely askew fashion industry norms would also go on to influence brands business wise, as labels that emerged within the early 1990s (Cross Colors, Karl Kani, etc) followed a blueprint Smith laid within the industry before his untimely passing in 1987.
Influences from his aesthetic can be found in various collections from the likes of Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing and Kim Jones of Dior/Fendi, as well as labels such as Eckhaus Latta, Y/Project, Vaquera, and GmbH, according to The Cooper Hewitt Museum.
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Scott Barrie
The late Scott Barrie was one of an elite class of African-American designers to make their presence known on NYC’s Seventh Avenue back in the 1960s, specializing in slinky jersey dresses and designs only the most confident could pull off. He was also a magician with chiffon who was praised for his draping technique, offering sexy ensembles to those who sought to turn heads during a night out on the town. He was also sure to produce ready-to-wear collections that could take his client from Studio 54 to a downtown luncheon to a fashion week presentation with ease.
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Stephen Burrows
A contemporary of Barrie, Stephen Burrows was also known for his tasteful execution of sexy frocks meant to convey the energy and appeal of its wearer. Known for mixing fabrics, bright colors, and other attention-grabbing elements within his designs, the living legend was also a proponent of fashion being “easy-to-wear” as opposed to ready-to-wear, often substituting zippers and buttons in exchange for snaps and elastic, elevating comfort in design while retaining it’s accessibility. He’s also considered a forefather of modern lounge, athletic, and leisurewear, commonly referred to today as athleisure.
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Prince
Prince Rogers Nelson, like most on this list, used fashion as a means of self-expression, regularly breaking the rules when it came to embracing androgynous style. From his love of frilly fabrics and “feminine” colors to his penchant for high heels and eye-liner, The Purple One dressed in a way that showcased all sides of himself. The feminine, the masculine, the showman, the spiritualist, all of these aspects of his being were exhibited through his impeccable sense of style throughout his career.
The influence has been prevalent for decades, with Prince and peers like David Bowie altering the idea of what’s “acceptable” within menswear. He constantly challenged the notion that masculinity is a rigid standard of behavior that stifles individuality, with labels like Gucci, Balmain, and Versace drawing inspiration from the opulence of his classic ‘fits for modern menswear collections, GQ has noted.
BYU adds that Rag & Bone, Vetements, Public School and other “it” brands have drawn direct inspiration from the icon’s androgynous style, which has also found its way into the closets of stars ranging from Jaden Smith to Harry Styles.
The artist not only embraced all aspects of himself, but did so unashamedly, inspiring others to do the same, regardless of backlash from the closed-minded among us. Perhaps that is the biggest takeaway from Prince’s iconic fashion journey; not to imitate him, necessarily, but to embrace your own flyness, regardless of those who just don’t see the vision.
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Dapper Dan
One of Hip-Hop’s most influential and revered tailors and designers, Dapper Dan has been the embodiment of his name since the 1980s, when he opened his own boutique in his native Harlem, NYC. Providing fresh custom ‘fits for the likes of Big Daddy Kane, LL Cool J, Mike Tyson, Run DMC, Bobby Brown and more, the pioneer was the first to bring designer labels to the streets, tailoring prints from European houses like Gucci, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton into distinctly urban fashion, long before these brands began to embrace the streetwear atheistic themselves. Unfortunately, a scuffle between Mike Tyson and Mitch Green in his store led to mass attention for the locale, which resulted in lawsuits for copyright infringement from the three aforementioned labels.
Ironically, these brands would later seek out his expertise, as Dan, born Daniel R. Day, inspired a 2017 Gucci jacket that made headlines for its similarity to one he designed for Olympian Diane Dixon in 1989. After being called out for jacking his style decades after suing him over it, Gucci welcomed the icon into the fold, soon after releasing a collection from the style expert. His oft-sold out ‘DAP’ collaboration with Gap is an even more recent example of Dan maintaining his cachet and cultural relevance over 30 years after first opening his doors on 125th street.
With no signs of slowing down, we look forward to seeing what the OG has planned in the future after defining much of its past.
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April Walker
April Walker‘s contributions to fashion within Hip-Hop cannot be overstated, as the Brooklyn native has left her mark at brands such as Phat Farm (where she served as Vice President), AND1 (where she created a women’s division), and countless others. She’s also shared her expertise while being featured in Hip-Hop style docs The Remix Hip Hop X Fashion and Fresh Dressed, as per The Hip Hop Museum.
Walker is perhaps best known for her own Walker Wear brand, established in the early 1990s and worn by icons such as Tupac Shakur, The Notorious B.I.G. (who would regularly frequent her Brooklyn store, Fashion In Effect), Run-DMC, Mike Tyson, and Aaliyah. The first urban fashion brand created and led by a woman, it went on to influence brands like Baby Phat, Sean John, Rocawear, FUBU, and more.
The fashionista is also recognized for ushering in a new aesthetic for young women who wanted to express both a love of high fashion and their Hip-Hop roots, while providing both her male and female clients — ranging from Shaq to The Wu-Tang Clan — with custom looks courtesy of her styling services, much like one of her own mentors, Dapper Dan. Far from living in anyone’s shadow, however, Walker is an icon in her own right, continuing to effect change within the industry with a combination of talent, taste, and authenticity.
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Lil Kim
Lil Kim is arguably the most influential style icon within Hip-Hop history.
No other artist has inspired the aesthetic of more women rappers than the Brooklyn diva, who made an overwhelming style statement with her 1997 debut, Hard Core, and its accompanying visuals. This not only includes the famous “spread eagle” pose presented on a promo poster — which has been replicated by many — but her love of colorful minks, wigs, fishnets, latex, and more, which can be spotted on the likes of Saweetie, Latto, and Megan Thee Stallion today.
While she wasn’t the first rapper to name drop luxury brands, she did glamorize these labels in her bars enough to make every woman covet them, similar to Sarah Jessica Parker pushing Manolo Blahniks via Sex And The City. The affect of that influence was felt both in the streets and within the bottom line of brands who found an inadvertent ambassador in the “No Time” artist.
Today, Kim is still considered a trend-setter and GOAT of Hip-Hop fashion, as Latto heaped praise on the Queen Bee recently for setting the bar for luxurious sex appeal within rap.
“The GOAT is Lil’ Kim, for sure. [A] fashion icon, [with] timeless music, timeless looks, gon’ forever be a staple, in not only rap, but female rap.”
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Misa Hylton
As we recognize the fashion force that is Lil Kim, we cannot dismiss the immaculate work of one of her most frequent collaborators, stylist Misa Hylton. The wardrobe pro is responsible for some of the rap diva’s most iconic looks, including her 1999 VMAs purple jumpsuit and pastie that remains as iconic as it was the night Brooklyn’s finest hit the red carpet.
In addition to helping Kim build her brand as a style maven, Hylton contributed to the overall progression of Hip-Hop style by combining urbanwear with high-end design elements back when the European labels wanted little to do with Black culture.
In addition to Kimmy Blanco, Hylton has provided duds for artists like Jodeci and Mary J. Blige, speaking to Coveteur about the impact Hip-Hop fashion has had on the music itself.
“Hip-hop fashion has had a huge influence not only in hip-hop music, but all music because you see hip-hop style everywhere. You can turn on the TV right now, and it could be an insurance company commercial, and you see somebody rapping in it or something that comes from hip-hop culture. It’s all about the power of what we create, the power of creation and how it’s spread. It will and does impact everyone because it’s art, and art is for everyone to enjoy.”
The MCM global creative partner — who also secured Beyoncé’s MCM bustier and trench coat for the 2018 “Apeshit” video — founded her Misa Hylton Fashion Academy (MHFA) in 2012.
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June Ambrose
June Ambrose is another stylist who heavily contributed to the progression of Hip-Hop fashion. Like Hylton, Ambrose became known for her association with Bad Boy artists in the 1990s, styling some of the most iconic videos of the decade while pushing a level of extravagance that the masses couldn’t help but emulate. Some of these clips include Biggie’s “Mo Money, Mo Problems,” Busta Rhymes’ “Put Your Hands Where My Eyes Can See,” Jay-Z’s “Change Clothes,” and Missy’s “The Rain (Supa Dupa Fly).”
Speaking of Missy, the fashion icon continues to inspire and impress with her contributions to the artist’s current Out Of This World Tour, telling WWD that she crafted nearly 250 costumes for the trek. She also served as creative director of Puma Hoops for three years and was named to WWD x Footwear News x Beauty Inc’s Women in Power list in 2023, among countless other accomplishments.
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Pharrell Williams
Pharrell has had an undeniable influence over fashion trends for the last 20 years, beginning with his brand of choice back in the early 2000s, BAPE. Alongside founder Nigo, the pair soon launched Billionaire Boys Club, one of the most prominent streetwear labels of the era that still holds cachet. Making its debut in his 2003 “Frontin’” video, the masses were soon flocking to buy into his brand of “cool,” that was also exhibited through his prominence as a go-to hitmaker.
In 2005, Pharrell and Nigo designed the “Millionaire” sunglasses for Marc Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton spring-summer collection, establishing a relationship with the brand with whom he’d go on to have a storied relationship. He would soon contribute custom outerwear designs and a collection of jewelry to LV, as well as representing the brand in various ads and regularly attending runway shows. This eventually culminated in his appointment as men’s creative director in 2023, a position he took following the passing of another style titan, Virgil Abloh.
LV isn’t the only brand to recognize Williams’ talents, as he also shared an extensive relationship with Chanel, as well as other fashion houses. That said, most of his OG fans love what he represented before the major labels got a hold of him, as a creative roaming the streets of Tokyo, picking up inspiration at every corner and combining it with the accessibility of skater tees, trucker hats and distressed denim.
Williams has shown us that he knows the value of fashion, both as a billion-dollar industry and as a unifying agent among society. Here’s to the kid from Virginia continuing to make waves in a game he’s changed many times over. Cheers!
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Ye (FKA Kanye West)
The artist formerly known as Kanye West is responsible for multiple trends within Hip-Hop and beyond, solidifying his fashion influence early with the uptick in Polo sales following his entrance into the game.
He introduced us to his inner designer with his exclusive colorways for the 2005-2006 Nike Air 180, commemorating his debut album, The College Dropout, followed by his “Dropout Bear” collab with A Bathing Ape in late 2006. His personal style at this time also influenced the direction of streetwear for seasons to come.
It wasn’t until 2009, however, that West became a force to be reckoned with within fashion with the Nike Air Yeezy. His first time crafting his own silhouette, West debuted the now-iconic sneaker at the 2009 Grammys, sending sneakerheads into a frenzy. All three colorways that were available to the public sold out instantly. His influence within the sneaker game would be further solidified thanks to the Kanye West x Louis Vuitton Don, Nike Air Yeezy 2 (specifically the Red Octobers) and his 2015 YEEZY Season 1 collection with ADIDAS. The New York Fashion Week event brought us the Yeezy Boost 750 and introduced the first low-top Yeezy 350, which has been deemed by L’Officiel as “a decade-defining sneaker.”
It should also be noted that several of Ye’s designs were later replicated by other brands, ranging from high-end designers to fast fashion retailers.
In the decade since, West has found himself at the helm of sold-out collections and controversial partnerships. Regardless of where Ye found himself partnered — and how those relationships eventually ended — the public has remained loyal to his personal brand, at least when it comes to his sense of style.
From his influence over streetwear to his “All Black” era, to his collections spearheading trends like elongated tops, skinny denim, earth-toned cropped tees, and even elevating concert merch, Ye has remained a revered style statesmen who has a massive hand in what the masses deem “cool.” This extends to his peers, as artists ranging from A$AP Rocky and Tyler, The Creator to Donald Glover have all acknowledged him as a major inspiration for the drip of an entire generation.
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Rihanna
While Rihanna‘s first two albums — 2005’s Music of the Sun and 2006’s A Girl Like Me — found the Caribbean superstar going for a typical pop star look, 2008’s Good Girl Gone Bad not only signaled a change musically, but with her image. She did away with the basic bi*ch style of her peers in favor of an edgy, yet chic aesthetic that she still embraces to this day, along with countless other trends that she, somehow, manages to pull off without it feeling forced or inauthentic.
Embracing a new look with every album — and in the years since she’s dropped one — Rihanna’s style evolution is well documented, sprinkling her influence among her fellow “Bad Gals” for over a decade. Soon enough, she wasn’t just the best dressed on the red carpet, but a true gamechanger who left fans waiting with baited breath every time she hit the town. Her Met Gala looks alone are some of the greatest moments in fashion of the 2000s, and she’s an anticipated guest during “fashion’s biggest night” every year.
Rihanna was also the first Black woman to helm a luxury brand under LVMH, and changed the intimates industry with her Savage X Fenty label, featuring inclusive sizing and highlighting all body types during her annual runway shows. This has, in turn, empowered a generation of women who were once made to feel fashion and sex appeal had no place outside of runway queens.
In fact, Riri has long embraced the idea that confidence is the true key to pulling off a look, eventually choosing to drape herself in luxurious fabrics without needing to show a lick of skin, especially after becoming a mom. Sure, she freed the nipple many a time in her 20s, but has a new outlook on her own personal style now that she’s raising sons, Rza and Riot.
“I’ve done so much sh*t in my life,” she began. “I’ve had my nipples out, my panties out. But now, those are the things which, I guess as a mum and an evolved young lady — emphasis on young — there are things I feel like I would never do. Like, ‘Oh my God, I really did that? Nips out?’”
Yes, after almost 20 years in the game, her style is still evolving, and we can’t wait to see what the young icon does next.
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Billy Porter
Red carpet “menswear” hasn’t been the same since Billy Porter gained prominence in the late 2010s, breaking boundaries by combining traditionally masculine and feminine elements into his looks in the vein of fellow style icons such as Prince and Grace Jones.
He brought his unique sense of style to mainstream audiences via any number of A-list events. His attention grabbing tuxedo gown was the talk of the 2019 Oscars, as was his blue crystal jumpsuit paired with an amazing matching hat with silver fringe — that opened and closed mechanically — at the 2020 Grammys.
Whether or not the masses choose to give him the flowers he so rightfully deserves, the man himself knows his influence, speaking on how his red carpet concepts helped shape the styling choices of famous men to follow — like Harry Styles and Lil Nas X — last year to Page Six.
Of his 2019 tuxedo gown, Porter shared of his many unforgettable looks, “That’s the most significant one because of the impact it’s had on the entire world. Fashion has changed since then. Men feel freer since then and I love being a part of that.”
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A$AP Rocky
Harlem’s A$AP Mob have established themselves as not only a musical collective, but a fashion forward one, with A$AP Bari co-founding streetwear brand VLONE and A$AP Ferg highlighting Ralph Lauren and Alexander Wang as some of his biggest influences. Take a random poll, however, and it’s A$AP Rocky who’ll likely be considered the most influential out of the impressive bunch.
Deemed “the best dressed man in Hip-Hop” by GQ, Rocky has embraced a combination of high-end luxury and streetwear brands, as well as avant-garde creations and elements of DIY style. This combination has resulted in the Uptown gentleman being embraced by the masses, ranging from his fellow stylish New Yorkers to European fashion houses like Gucci, Loewe, and more.
Rocky’s also unafraid to break gender barriers with his accessories, rocking everything from pearls and nail art to rhinestone hair clips, and unlike other male celebs, he’s rarely questioned about it. This speaks to the chokehold he has over a generation conflicted with style’s evolution beyond the masculine and feminine. Dapper Dan once noted that Rocky “caused a shift” in Harlem style with his emergence on the scene, one even he didn’t see coming.
“The biggest challenge to traditional Harlem fashion right now is A$AP Rocky, because he caused a shift,” Dan said in fashion doc Fresh Dressed. “I have never seen it move so far from the traditional look as it is now. That’s really something to examine. And the feedback that I’m getting from the streets is that the style is really almost shocking to some. Harlem fashion was generated from the guys on the corner who had no problem balling like certain entertainers.”
With his new label, American Sabotage, making its Paris Fashion Week debut this summer, Rocky is sure to further solidify himself a force to be reckoned with, and one of the most influential style icons of the 2010s and 2020s.
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Tyler, the Creator
Tyler, the Creator’s love of Supreme sparked a frenzy of interest in the brand in the early 2010s, helping bring the streetwear label to prominence among young, fashion conscious consumers who just needed a bit of guidance in the art of the drip.
With his GolfWang brand, launched in 2011, Tyler introduced the world to his own version of fun, yet refined streetwear that spoke to his own evolving personal brand. As he’s matured, so has his taste level, and yet he refuses to mute his robust spirit and mischievous charm. It finds its way into his creations via vibrant hues and endorphin-inducing prints and details, often on classic silhouettes that have adorned dapper gentlemen for decades. This especially applies to his high-end offerings via Golf Le Fleur.
The California native’s wide range of influences allow for him to create from a place of studied knowledge while embracing his own vision and trusting his own instincts, a balance fans have come to admire from the multidisciplinary artist. This skill has come in quite handy in his work not only for himself, but others, and continues to set him apart from the uninspired among us.
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Martine Rose
Martine Rose has been one of the most important figures in fashion for over a decade, subtly shifting the look and feel of menswear in that time. She is said to pull from a “streetwear ethos” of mining niche communities for inspo, but ultimately prioritizes casual refinement. Her aesthetic, described as, “a semi-slim high-waist pant paired with a cropped jacket and a clunky, square-toe shoe,” has found its way into the collections of several high-end labels, including Balenciaga, where she consulted Demna Gvasalia on his menswear designs.
Her work has adorned stars ranging from Kendrick Lamar and A$AP Mob to Rihanna and Hailey Bieber, all of whom have fan bases looking to them for the next wave. When it comes to Lamar, Rose provided his 2023 Grammy look and has worked on custom tour costumes with the star, while Riri has been seen rocking her looks from the streets of London to Uptown New York.
As she continues to move through the industry spreading her influence, we salute the innovator who continues to progress menswear in a way that is often reserved only for designers draping the female form. The category is forever changed thanks to her vision, and we look forward to her next move.
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