October 6, 2024

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London Fashion Week SS25 kicks off in style

London Fashion Week SS25 kicks off in style

London Fashion Week celebrates 40 years of sharing diverse, dynamic, and daring talent with the world today. With a fresh lineup of established brands, South Asian labels, as well as British Fashion Council NewGen designers, LFW’25 is ready to roll. Indian designer Kanika Goyal’s collection titled Playfield, British designer Harris Reed’s on-schedule collection Encore, and eBay’s first-ever pre-loved Endless Runway collection kicked off the Spring/Summer season on Thursday evening with an inclusive blend of fashion, art, and culture. 

Undoubtedly, LFW has previously showcased fearless and wild originality that makes London a launchpad for designers who dare to dream. This season, although a few regular London designers including Supriya Lele and Molly Goddard are missing from the schedule, there are new exciting additions like Ahluwalia and Roksanda Ilinčić that are worth looking out for. LFW’s 40th anniversary celebrations will include panel discussions, runway livestreams, couture concerts, film screenings, and much more. It is indeed a happy birthday for London Fashion Week and for those who are celebrating! 

Day 1

Kanika Goyal

Image credit: James Cochrane

Indian designer Kanika Goyal showcased her eponymous brand’s Spring/Summer collection called Playfield, which captures the essence of playfulness—inspired by the nostalgia of childhood and creativity. The designer reimagined her signature boxy suits with a playful yet sophisticated touch in vibrant citrus yellow. The collection also featured deconstructed leather dresses with handkerchief hemlines that added an avant-garde edge. Motifs drawn from nature, infused with a sense of carefree exploration, brought a fresh, whimsical energy to the runway. This bold reinterpretation captured the essence of imagination, celebrating fashion as a joyful, expressive art form, free from the pressures of perfection.

eBay

For the first time, eBay has joined the ranks of Burberry, JW Anderson, and 16Arlington on the official schedule, presenting its own pre-loved fashion show. The collection, curated in partnership with the British Fashion Council (BFC) and the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), featured archival pieces from British designers, hosting live, shoppable runway shows. Handpicked pre-loved curations by stylist Amy Bannerman included a variety of exquisite pieces by British luxury designers. The flirty, corseted Vivienne Westwood ‘Lisette’ dress, JW Anderson’s leather bomber jacket, Christopher Kane’s embellished crystal lace slit skirt, and Stella McCartney’s quirky ‘Smile’ jumper were spotted. Handbags, reminiscent of the iconic Birkin, were stuffed with eclectic trinkets, reflecting Gen Z’s love for personalisation, and overall saw an aesthetic that bridged grunge and vintage with classic luxury. 

Harris Reed

Known to fight for the beauty of fluidity, half-American, half-British, Harris Reed’s designs always spark conversations. His spring RTW’25 collection, Encore saw strong glimpses of Victorian applique drapes, 19th-century cherub-motif golden silk, and vintage curtain panels in Duchesse satin that focus on his artisanal techniques. Nothing short of a theatrical experience, the evening had glamorous sculpted silhouettes with over-the-top proportions and soft romantic corsetry. Reed also took great influence from architecture and interiors—think domed ceilings and sprawling archways. The influence of this design philosophy is seamlessly reflected in the softness of the fabrics and the rigidity of the structures. Reed reinterprets romanticism into modern-day couture, maintaining a perfect balance between fantasy and function.

Day 2

Friday morning at London Fashion Week saw the works of Paul Castelloe’s first bridal collection with strong Parisian influences, Stephen Jones Millinery displaying a selection of his iconic hats from 1984, British Fashion Council (BFC) NewGen brand Di Pesta’s SS collection of wet looks, sunburns and Greek influence followed by Bahraini womenswear brand Noon by Noor and their breezy all white ensembles. The afternoon brought in a wave of more talented designers like LVMH prize winner Steven Stokey-Daley with his first line of womenswear, Yuhan Wang’s sporty and flirty collection inspired by female boxers, Mark Fast’s brat summer coded collection, after which Chet Lo, Natasha Zinko and Chopova Lowena presented too. The evening events at LFW, saw cultural representation and a phygital set up of exhibitions, THIS IS ICON X JCA Awards Runway Gala in aid of NSPCC, and more. Noteworthy collaboration of the evening was Rahul Mishra X Tod’s and the most enchanting capsule collection of accessories, along with Indian designer Aartivijay Gupta’s debut on the runway with her namesake brand.

The second day of the show saw a star-studded attendance including Harry Styles, Cate Blanchett, Naomi Campbell, and many more! 

AARTIVIJAY GUPTA 

Aartivijay Gupta’s debut at London Fashion Week SS25 with her collection, ‘Postcard from Kashmir’ made a striking impression. Held at St John’s Church in Hyde Park, the show was a visual kaleidoscopic journey through the picturesque landscapes of Kashmir. The menswear and womenswear collection featured earthy prints and dyes mirroring the region’s blue skies, green pastures, and soil-like mountains. Silhouettes ranged from drop-shoulders to anti-fit printed blazers with oversized lapels, fit-and-flare dresses, and relaxed co-ord sets. Floor-length mesh dresses added a modern edge, blending tradition with contemporary style in this personal and beautiful collection. The dome-like arches of the church paired with the symphony of the tabla and sitar, gave the showcase a theatrical touch. 

RAHUL MISHRA X TOD’S 

Italian luxury fashion house Tod’s AND Indian couturier Rahul Mishra collaborated for a capsule collection that was unveiled at LFW on Friday evening at the brand’s Bond Street boutique. The Indian designer has reinterpreted the iconic Tod’s Gommino, Tod’s Di Bag and a selection of Tod’s T Timeless accessories for men and women adorned with intricate floral, tiger and the Tree of Life motif embroideries, crystal, beads and sequins. This capsule beautifully blends Italian artisanal tradition with the rich heritage of Indian craftsmanship. Tod’s accessories are meticulously hand-embroidered by master Kaarigar artisans, who have honed their craft over generations. The collaboration is a celebration of cultural artistry, elevating classic designs with intricate, handcrafted detailing, reflecting the precision and dedication of India’s skilled artisanship.

S.S.DALEY

Much talked about Steven Stokey-Daley’s debut womenswear Spring/Summer collection at LFW ’25 called ‘No Suffix, Prefix or Quote’ was quite the head-turner. The Liverpool-born designer showcased 24 crisp looks with great attention to detail and storytelling. Antiquated blazers opened the show featuring intricate floral embroidery, slightly exposed shirt collars, and elaborate crochet socks. The collection was super cool and old school both, with beaded designs that gave a pixelated effect and vintage floor-length double-breasted waistcoats and trench coats that were layered with fur neck trimmings. Daley, who recently won the 2024 Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design is well known for his compelling craftsmanship that is seen throughout the collection. 

PAUL COSTELLOE

Irish designer Paul Costelloe presented his first-ever spring bridal collection that brought Paris to the guests at the Waldorf Hilton hotel in London. The line is called ‘Le ciel est bleu’ (the sky is blue), and features a pastel parisian palette of blue, pink, yellow and green. With the use of sumptuous Irish linens, cotton and silk jacquards presented in radiant pastels, this collection exudes a youthful romantic spirit. Smocking details paired with delicate ruffle trims, linen dresses, skirts and silk linen, and tweed co-ord sets were seen on the models. Jewellery designer and architect Angela Brady, added a luminous touch to the womenswear ollection with iridescent, delicate jewellery that complimented the bridal pieces. 

 

NOON BY NOOR 

At Somerset House during London Fashion Week SS25, Noon by Noor delivered a masterclass in understated luxury with linen. The collection featured elegant linen pieces in soft, relaxed silhouettes, accented with blue floral prints. This womenswear designer brand is founded by cousins Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa, based in Bahrain and serves a global audience. A few pieces featured subtle shimmer from the glitter dresses layered under pleated netting along with a primary palette of white with lime green played across tiered and A-line dresses. Creating a balance between tailored and breezy styles, easy co-ord sets and cinched waist dresses also made a mark. 

NATASHA ZINKO 

Natasha Zinko’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled ‘Plastic’, brought a brave blend of satire and social commentary to London Fashion Week on Friday. Playfully provocative, the collection featured T-shirts emblazoned with ‘Insert Tits Here’, silicone moulds peeking from half-cup bras, and leather trousers. Stiff mesh dresses with corseted panels, and sheer silicone-dipped cargos, and cutouts challenged the line between daring and what would be deemed improper. The show transformed into a surreal hospital scene that inspired the designs wherein models were seen in lab coats and double-layered jerseys embodied a sharp critique on surgery and body modification, all wrapped in Zinko’s signature unapologetic confidence and fearlessness. 

Day 3 

Nothing matches the stylish spirit of London like the London Fashion Week. The city’s signature style cocktail of unapologetic rebellion and classic British elegance was in full force, with the best of brat-coded leather looks and hyper-feminine regencycore outfits. Statement-making street style is seen at the corner of every block, unveiling high fashion looks that are not only restrained to the runway.

Day three of LFW’25 called for a unique lineup of emerging luxe labels, established brands, as well as NewGen designers presenting their RTW menswear and womenswear collections for the next season. The morning kicked off with an intimate presentation by Ethiopian designer Feben and her eclectic collection titled ‘REIGN’. At noon, designer Patrick McDowell showcased ‘Portraits of a Painter’, his passionate collection inspired by the life and work of Glynn Philpot. Following which path-breaking designers like Masha Popova, Aaron Esh, Kent & Curwen, Richard Quinn, and Nensi Dojaka made day three a memorable one. Notable South Asian designers such as Harri, Ahluwalia, Rocky Star, and Tabeer India by Palak D Arya made a striking impact at LFW with collections rooted in cultural inspiration. Each designer infused notes of their heritage and seamlessly blended it in with contemporary fashion.

AHLUWALIA 

British-Nigerian-Indian designer Priya Ahluwalia brings what home means to her with her namesake brand. Titled ‘Home Sweet Home’, this nostalgic collection is an homage to soulful ties between identity and culture. Prints inspired by Ahluwalia’s grandparents’ wallpaper with colour pairings of ecru, terracotta, and amber imitated her diverse upbringing. The 31-look collection saw an intricate range overwhelmed by floral crochet, geometric patterns, and graphic silk uniforms. The runway show featured models in elegant silhouettes that also had an undertone of athletic inspirations like cross-stitched ball gowns, asymmetrical knitted tops, and football gear with striking ornamentation. See-through netted tops as well as sheen satin bottoms also made it to the collection. 

HARRI

Kerala-born Indian designer Harikrishnan Keezhathil Surendran Pillai debuted his first womenswear collection at LFW on Saturday evening with his eponymous brand Harri. The SS’25 collection has been entirely hand-patterned, cut, and assembled by the designer himself and his talented team of artisans—without the use of machinery or appliances during the making process. The runway show was full of eccentric and edgy energy with an understated elegance that the models carried with each ensemble. Harri’s signature sculptural bouncing silhouettes, as well as skin-tight latex garments in a black-heavy dark colour palette, left a lasting impression. The shiny long leather coats and inflated skirts had a mind of their own. Drawing inspiration from extraordinary forms and materials, the womenswear collection skilfully combines couture and surrealism.

FEBEN 

Feben, the BFC NewGen alumni and Ethiopian designer, presented her RTW SS’25 collection ‘REIGN’ in her signature style with innovative textures and artisanal detailing. Jumbo fringes, heavily ruched off-shoulder designs, flounced hems, and cinched shirts were seen in the collection that was largely inspired by the flamboyance of Spanish dancer and actor Antonia Singla. Slit skirts and vest dresses with sculpted hips, richly embroidered with reversible sequins, also brought some glamour to the peppy collection. REIGN is also a wordplay on London’s unpredictable weather that Feben wanted to include as a part of this spring/summer showcase.

MASHA POPOVA 

Ukrainian-born London designer Masha Popova’s SS’25 collection named ‘Impulse’ was heavily inspired by Patrick Magaud’s ‘Exhibition in Paris’. With pussybow denim shackets and glittery blue capris, Popova demonstrates her love for the fabric and uses it in a variety of denim-on-denim styles. A bunch of Y2K references with pink velvets, mini minis, ultra-low waists and low necklines, and peeking lacey bras with transparent bodycon also served at the runway show. A whole lot of fun elements, like the choice of lensless oversized spectacles, 3D nails, and special Adidas Superstar sneakers, made each look complete. 

ROCKY STAR 

London Fashion Week’s SS25 saw Indian designer Rocky Star unveil a collection that masterfully combined modern glamour and tasteful elegance. The collection featured bold contrasts, effortlessly blending shimmering sequins with structured tailoring, romantic silhouettes, and a touch of cottagecore whimsy. Heavy pink sequins stole the spotlight, adorning straight gowns, tiered dresses, and sheer mini-dresses, creating an intoxicating interplay of light and texture as models moved under the runway lights. The collection transitioned into a more ethereal realm with printed floor-length fit-and-flare dresses, complete with dramatic mutton sleeves, and headgear that evoked an enchanting print-heavy cottagecore fantasy.

NENSI DOJAKA

LVMH Prize-winning, London-based Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka makes a comeback at LFW two seasons later in collaboration with Calvin Klein. Dojaka brings his feminine, sensual, see-through styles to the runway. The collection is a 44-piece capsule with flowy and frilly lingerie-like pieces, colour-blocking knitwear, and structured evening sequined looks with an extensive colour palette fitting for the spring/summer season. The visual language of the womenswear pieces with visible seams, sheer and matte contrasts outlined by fine straps, bodywear with tulle, georgette tops, and figure-hugging dresses showcase Dojaka’s distinct aesthetic. 

TABEER INDIA BY PALAK D ARYA

Indian designer Palak D Arya debuted at LFW on Saturday afternoon with her contemporary couture brand Tabeer India. This celestial collection is inspired by European women from the 80’s with contrasting traditional Indian embellishments, embroidery, and craftsmanship. A dazzling display of sequins, intricate embroidery, and modern silhouettes was brought to life by the masterful hands of Tabeer India’s karigars. With blazer dresses, waistcoats, and lehenga-like skirts, the collection balanced structured tailoring with flowing, feminine shapes, offering a fresh take on cross-cultural fusion. The colour palette added to the allure, with egg white, gold accents, and jewel tones of maroon, indigo, and black anchoring the collection in both luxury and timeless elegance.

KENT & CURWEN 

Kent & Curwen showcased their SS’25 menswear and womenswear collection at the Royal Academy, one of Britain’s most esteemed learning institutions. The RTW collection featured amply cut blazers with 3D rosette appliqués, pleated skirts, blazers, and shorts co-ords that came in navy and charcoal wool. Blue poplin shirts will trigger nostalgia in anyone who has attended a British secondary school. School team rugby shirts and cricket sweaters also made a quirky appearance on the runway. The collection also included black blazers in various double-breasted, long trench, and oversized styles. It gave back to school with a tailored twist. 

Day 4

Every year trends emerge from runway shows at the London Fashion Week, when influential designers present new styles that capture their zeitgeist. The cycle continues as fast fashion brands replicate these looks, making them accessible to the public. Ultimately, a runway concept becomes a full-fledged trend, shaping what we wear. This year at the spring/summer’25 season of LFW, experienced and celebrated designers are bringing back older trends in offbeat forms through their collections. From balletcore to cottagecore, designers are giving us exactly what we want, but only bigger and better. 

Day four of celebrating the 40th anniversary of the London Fashion Week was nothing less than a party featuring fashion’s best showcases. J W Anderson and his seasons-long relationship with the LFW continued, as he jump-started day four with an eye-catching menswear and womenswear collection. His show was followed by the contemporary works of designers Roksanda Ilinčić, BFC NewGen Designer Yaku, Emilia Wickstead, 16Arlington, Simone Rocha, Sinead Gorey, ERDEM, Nepal-born British designer Sanyukta Shreshtha and many more. 

JW ANDERSON

Irish designer Jonathan Anderson and his namesake brand showcased at LFW’25 with an unmatched eye for the craft. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection embraced whimsy and fantasy, blending silk, leather, and glitter with exaggerated, unrealistic silhouettes. Unusual styles and prints like the dress with a printed paragraph from Clive Bell’s book ‘Art’ paired with unzipped boots were seen on the runway. Inflated bomber jackets were transformed into voluminous, one-piece outfits, and spaceship disc-like skirts pushed the boundaries of conventional fashion in classical JW Anderson style. Their SS’25 carried a magical energy, transporting us to a fantastical realm through playful and inventive designs. 

 

16ARLINGTON

 

Spanish designer Marco Capaldo’s brand 16Arlington, which explores the tension between traditional tailoring and modern embellishment, showed its SS’25 womenswear collection called ‘The Heat’. The runway floor was covered in tiny pieces of shredded paper that mimicked the styles of Capaldo’s collection ranging from a bunch of tassel-tiered dresses, bouncy feathers and lots of sheer. Leather motor uniforms were layered over metal-plated bras, and sheer tanks and suede trousers contrasted with red snakeskin handbags, exuding a primal energy. Glimpses of monstrous fur coats paired with miniature hot pants also served sensual looks, amping up the heat. 

SIMONE ROCHA 

Irish designer Simone Rocha showcased her eponymous label’s collection at London’s historic Central Criminal Court of England and Wales on Sunday evening. A barrage of tulle and tutus dominated the opening looks of the collection, which were heavily inspired by the balletcore trend. See-through fabrics adorned with embroidered crystal flowers on underwear and rhinestone-covered tall socks paired with loafers and jewelled collars were spotted on the models. Standout pieces included dramatic ballerina tutus, paired with cutout sweaters and outerwear artfully draped over stiff, structured fabrics. Denim and blazer dresses came either oversized and bulky or reimagined as corseted jackets, glittering with gems. Overall the collection was demure and understated. 

 

EMILIA WICKSTEAD

New Zealand-born designer Emilia Wickstead presented her namesake label’s spring/summer 2025 collection at the map room and main hall of the Royal Geographical Society in South Kensington, London. Drawing inspiration from the astute lens of German-born French photographer Gisèle Freund, Wickstead’s collection explored the profound connection between the photographer and the lives of her subjects. The collection featured a gamut of boxy pant-suit styles that were cut and assembled in one fabric across multiple colours. Slowly, bolder splashes of colour—baby blue, sugary pastel pink, blazing green—came in, as did a series of rhythmic block prints and feminine floral prints with distinct silhouettes. 

 

Day 5

Rightfully recognised as one of the fashion capitals of the world, London has seen some of the most edgiest and experimental spring/summer seasons. The invite-only guests always dress their best and are a true representation of the city’s evolving fashion scene. From iconic heritage brands like Burberry to Indian debutant designers like Aartivijay Gupta, LFW this year has brought an assorted range of designers to the forefront, that offer their unique design sensibilities.  

The lineup of day five began with BFC NewGen designer Johanna Parv, LFW debut designer Edeline Lee, followed by much talked-about Marques’ Almeida’s runway show. It also had Malone Souliers intimate presentation of their collection and Chinese-born, London-based designer, Huishan Zhang’s womenswear collection on the runway. The awaited and very regular at LFW, British luxury brand Burberry showed their SS’25 womenswear and menswear collection. A star-studded guest list of Olivia Colman, Barry Keoghan, Lili Reinhart, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley attended Burberry’s show. The evening was also followed by the works of talented multicultural designers like Ashley Williams, Jenn Lee, Sinead O’Dwyer, ApuJan, TOGA, Paolo Carzana, Zifei Wang and more.  

MARQUES’ ALMEIDA

Portuguese designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida with their brand Marques’ Almeida, presented SS’25 womenswear collection at St Paul’s Church in Covent Garden. Inspired by the opulence of 17th-century Dutch paintings and Baroque art, the collection seamlessly brought these historic references into a strikingly modern vision. The runway was filled with the label’s signature deconstructed silhouettes and uneven hemlines, now infused with a dominant presence of florals and frills. The designs maintained a playful printed rebellious spirit, reimagining classical elegance with a contemporary twist that felt fresh and bold. 

BURBERRY

Born of function and grounded in heritage, luxury brand Burberry took over London’s National Theatre on South Bank to present their SS’25 collection. In collaboration with artist Gary Hume, at the centre of the runway was an art installation with green cutout fabrics that the models catwalked around. Reconstructed trench coats with slashing buckles at the waist in soft grays along with utility arrived on panelled dresses with a militaristic aesthetic. While enlarged fur trimmings and voluminous ponchos aptly represented London’s weather, and a bunch of tailored pleated looks, complemented by chequered uniforms gave the staples an upgrade. Shimmering gowns glistened at every step with knotted pale purple tops, and graphic tees that added casual touches to the collection.

ASHLEY WILLIAMS

One of Britain’s most talked about contemporary womenswear designer brands, Ashley Williams is known for setting trends. The collection presented the multifaceted pressures and complicated nature of growing up and girlhood. Face covering wigs, gun motifs, doll aesthetics, superhero-like dresses featuring keyhole cut-outs and stuck combs in long blonde wigs displayed the rocky journey from youth to adulthood. This was also signified by the leather breastplate and matching skirt, embossed with the outline of a gun. The motif—which was also seen across dresses, and a tracksuit top and skirt—alongside a cap and T-shirt printed with the slogan “Happiest girl in the world” next to bloody bullet wounds. The models and collection conveyed a twisted vision of girlhood.

Day 6

The final day of the Week saw a lineup of digital events by DiscoveryLAB, fashion films by designers and various campaign collections that were virtually streamed on the official website of London Fashion Week. DiscoveryLAB presented designers Nicole Zisman, Nina Doroushi, FRANCESCA LAKE, Kinks Lab and OIZA with a digital showcase of their spring/summer collections. Along with Nepal-born British designer Sankyukta Shreshtha’s film Cohesion, offering a unique insight into Shrestha’s journey from Nepal to the UK and her dedication to sustainable practices that emphasise environmental, cultural, and social cohesion. The digital events close with a campaign film of KWK by KAY KWOK, Chapter 5, that is a journey of exploring inner minds with a deep dive into self-awareness, introspection, and understanding the unconscious. 

It officially is a wrap for London Fashion Week and the end of a seven-day long event that inspires, aspires and celebrates fashion like no other. 

Lead image credit: Getty

Also read: All the trends spotted at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo S/S ’25

Also read: Dubai Fashion Week 2024: Where functional, fun, and wearable art came together

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